What photos should a customer send before a quote?

The shots that help most

• A close-up of the problem. In daylight if you can. The workshop needs to see the damage, the wear or the leak, not the whole car.
• One wider shot. It shows where on the car the problem is, so the close-up makes sense.
• The dash with the engine running. If a warning light is on, a photo of it is worth more than a description of its colour.
• Tyres: the tread and the sidewall. Plus the size written on the sidewall, if you can get it in the shot.
• Leaks: where the drip lands. A photo of the puddle under the car, and a note of its colour, help narrow it down.

When a video beats a photo

Noises, rattles and anything that only happens while the engine is running are much easier to judge on video. Keep it short and hold the phone close to where the sound comes from. If it only happens on the road, have a passenger film it, or pull over safely first. Never film while you’re driving.

What not to bother with

Dark shots at night, photos with heavy flash glare and pictures of the whole car from across the street rarely help. Neither do ten photos of the same thing. If the workshop needs more, they’ll ask.

How Frank does it

When your workshop sends you a Frank link, you can describe the problem and add photos or a short video straight from your phone. They arrive with the job, so the mechanic can prepare before the car comes in, and you’ll see the quote from the same link.

Questions

Do photos replace an inspection?

No. They help the workshop prepare. A qualified tech still checks the car.

How long should a video be?

Short. Long enough to catch the noise or the fault, and no longer.

Should I film while driving?

No. Pull over safely, or have a passenger film it.